As we explored the vast plains Hwange National Park with our trusted safari guide, we found that our next camp was built around a large waterhole, which is fed from one of the many boreholes in this reserve.

Fresh water is pumped into the pan through a pipe, made to look like a spring.  On this particular afternoon we elected to forgo the game drive and relax with our safari guide on the expansive deck overlooking the pan– Gin & Tonic in hand and patiently awaiting any visitors. It turned out to be a good decision… the elephants were very thirsty that day and we were fascinated by the hierarchy and family order displayed right before our eyes by these gentle, but also dangerous wild animals.

Suddenly the mother elephant became alarmed and gave a mock charge. I just about jumped out of my skin – and froze at the same time! It was very frightening when this elephant came at us, even though she stopped after a few steps. 

After everyone settled down again, I had another G&T to calm the nerves and the little family moved on to make way for more elephants.

The sun was setting, and we were chatting away when this huge 6-ton elephant approached. Suddenly MT, our safari guide and camp manager became very still and watched our new visitor intently. “Do you smell that?” the guide whispered. I couldn’t smell anything, but there was tension in the air. “We’d better retreat” said MT, and so we crawled backwards, up the stairs onto the raised dining area. 

From here we could observe safely, while MT explained that this elephant was at the end of the musth period, a time when reproductive hormones are elevated, which is accompanied by highly aggressive behaviour. The males emit a pungent smell and secrete moisture from their temples. During this time, these elephant bulls are totally unpredictable and can be very dangerous, so it’s always best to give a wide berth.

Soon it was time for bed, as another early morning game drive was planned. By now, there were elephants all around us. How would we make the 100-meter dash to our comfortable tented home without bumping into an elephant? As large as they are, these grey pachyderms completely blend into the night and are totally silent. “We’ll just call an Uber” joked the camp manager, as our guide started up the safari jeep to drive us home safely.

We were much too excited to go to bed and sat on our verandah for a while, observing these majestic animals at the waterhole in front of our tented suite. Suddenly we heard a crunching sound behind us. We switched off all the lights and peaked out of the door, only to find a large elephant grazing on the bush, not 5 meters away from us! What a way to end this awesome day with the elephants of Hwange.