Let me introduce you to Jordan, where Antiquity meets Modernity

Our journey into history began at The Citadel in central Amman, where the restored entrance to the Temple of Hercules (166 AD) stands guard over the Roman amphitheater and the Al-Husseini Mosque, which is surrounded by vegetable stands, cafés and local craftsman shops.

Not far from there is the Jordan Museum, a modern building clad in the typical white sandstone of the area which tells the story of Jordan through the ages and houses part of the Dead Sea Scrolls.

Antiquity meets the present as well in As-Salt, a hillside town north of Amman, which dates back to 4500 BC. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was an important trading town during Ottoman times and today still has a bustling souk. 

Heading further north we arrived at an impressive 2nd-century Hadrian’s Arch, gateway to the walled Greco-Roman city of Jerash which dates from 63 BC. Standing in the center of the impressive Hippodrome, I could imagine watching the chariot races together with 15,000 cheering spectators.

From the huge oval colonnade, we walked down Cardo Maximus (main street), where the ruts from the iron-clad chariot wheels are still visible, and a butcher stone in the marketplace brought Jerash to life in my mind's eye and connected it to the present moment.

We admired the Nymphaeum – an ornamental fountain, the amphitheater, and took many pictures of the beautifully intact Corinthian columns of the Temple of Artemis.

Throughout our trip we imbibed many delicious home-cooked garden-to-table meals in small restaurants run by women empowerment groups. We took Calligraphy lessons at the #RSCN, known for its pioneering work in integrating nature conservation with socio-economic development, met a young man at Bait al Nai, who is bringing back the art of making Nais (traditional flutes) from locally grown reeds and teaches children how to play it, and visited with Dr. Fatima Al-nsour, a recognized social activist and peace ambassador whose grassroots initiatives are creating positive change, and that touched my heart.

We stopped off at Mount Nebo, in the Land of Moab (Jordan) from where the Prophet Moses saw Canaan, the Promised Land, before he died. The 4^th century memorial church on top of the hill holds beautiful mosaics, depicting lions, elephants, zebras, which must have lived in the area at that time.

Even on this hazy day we caught a view of the 5-million-year-old Dead Sea with Jerusalem in the background. The Rift Valley, which is a continuation of the East African Rift Valley, marks the boundary between the Arabian and African Plates and defines the western border with Israel.

Nearby Madaba is home to the oldest mosaic map of the Holy Land, dating back to 550 AD and stretching from the Mediterranean to the Nile valley. Old meets new here too, as still today skilled craftsmen are inspired to create intricate mosaics.

Heading south, we arrived in the Wadi Rum just in time for a spectacular sunset and then, stargazing - which was just as spectacular. Wadi Rum is a dramatic 720 km² protected desert wilderness, where 590-million-year-old sandstone blocks, some up to 1,700 m high, surround vast sandy valleys.

We discovered a magical oasis, a gorgeous small eco-camp set on raised walkways in a hidden corner of the desert. Here too, modern meets traditional and creates a space fit for kings and queens – literally!

I had always wanted to put my toes into the Red Sea, so I headed to Aqaba for some R&R. As Jordan’s only port city, it is also a renowned dive and snorkeling spot with beautiful beaches and coral reefs. 

To the envy of many locals, we had tickets to the concert of the season with Egyptian superstar Amr Diab. Even though we were probably the only tourists in a huge crowd of enthusiastic Jordanians, it was a wonderful experience where everyone made us feel very comfortable and safe, and when they’d ask: Where are you from? to our reply they always said ‘Welcome, welcome to Jordan!’

No journey to Jordan is complete without visiting Petra, which is one of the oldest cities in the world, and also one of the New7Wonders of the World. It was described by the Smithsonian Magazine as one of the “Places to See Before You Die”, and I wholehearted agree!

Thousands of years ago it was as known as Raqmu, a thriving Nabataean trading city of 20.000+. In 700 AD it was abandoned, then rediscovered by a Swiss explorer in 1812, who called Petra “a rose-red city half as old as time”.

I grabbed the opportunity to see Petra by Night, even though we’d already been on the road for over 12 hours that day. Walking through the 76m high Siq (canyon) at night in absolute silence along a candle-lit path, with Bedouin music drifting in and out, was surreal and healing. My first glimpse of Al Khazneh – the iconic Treasury – was unforgettable.

Early the next morning I was back at the gate to experience the winding path through Petra’s Siq in daylight. It is about a 30-minute walk, this time in 38°C heat and yet there was an anticipation and excitement that drew me ever closer – through the vibrant red, white and pink sandstone canyon – to the Nabatean/Hellenistic Treasury, which was now bathed in sunlight.

Standing in front of one of the most famous facades in the world was a magnificent experience, fulfilling a dream I never knew I had!

If this story has inspired you,

contact Christine Boecker

to plan your Journey to Jordan